![]() ![]() You'll also need a power supply for the driver board: 12v 4a is recommended, which should set you back around $10. If in doubt, take a picture of the label and send it to the seller, most will be happy to advise if you're buying the right item, or point you in the direction of the correct board if not. You can find a reference list of manufacturers and their codes here.Įxpect to pay around $20-$30 for a suitable driver board, the top end being boards with a HDMI connector, the cheaper end being just VGA. B is the manufacturer - AU Optronics - though this is also explicitly written below the model number so nothing surprising here.You can tell a little about the board just by glancing at the codes: Adding to the mountain of e-waste is something you should aim to avoid. Of course, where's the fun in that? Part of my motivation in doing this is to make good use of something that would otherwise have ended up in the trash, regardless of whether it costs a little more or not. A cursory glance through the "ending soonest" listings of eBay shows some 17-inch ex-office monitors going for less than $15. Once you factor in the additional $30-$40 for extra parts, it may be cheaper just to buy a fully functional old monitor at auction. Annoyingly, the controller board must also be precisely matched to your panel. In order to use that panel, you need a controller board made by a third party, which converts a standard HDMI signal into one suitable for that display. Unlike a ready-made monitor which just plugs into HDMI, the LCD or LED panel inside your laptop will have had a signal directly from the laptop's motherboard. Open that with a text editor.Before you start, I should note that counterintuitively, it's not always cost-effective to try and rescue a panel from a laptop, since you need to find a suitable driver board and power supply. Now, go back to Windows Explorer and navigate to the root of the “boot” volume again. This will have created a blank “ssh” file on the root of E: (or whatever you changed it to). To solve this, just open Powershell and type the following: cd E:\ (change the letter E for whatever the letter of the drive is with the "boot" label) It can be quite tricky to do as Windows moans that you have to use an extension. In there, you will need to make a blank file named “ssh”. We can save some time by pre-configuring WiFi and enabling SSH before we boot the Pi up.įirst, with the SD card still in your PC, open Windows Explorer, and navigate to the “Boot” partition of your SD card. I presume that you’re going to use WiFi on this RaspberryPi. Once finished, don’t take the SD card out yet. ![]() The app is easy to use and you just need to select the image, check the right SD card is selected and click “Flash”. Next, insert your microSD card into your PC and open BalenaEtcher. Then, download and install BalenaEtcher from their website. There are tons of tutorials on how to get this on an SD card but I will glance over it.įirst, download the Rasbpian Buster (or newer) image from the RaspberryPi website. The RaspberryPi has a normal instance of Raspbian Buster installed. It’s well detailed on how to install it on your Home Assistant instance: RaspberryPi Prep I am going to ask you nicely to follow the guide on the TileBoard repo. For reference, here is where I bought my acrylic from CutPlasticSheeting’s website.You don’t need 2 way glass, don’t but that expensive stuff! Instead, buy a pane of glass (which is much cheaper), and use some 2 way mirror film on it. The only reason being that the reflection is distored and looks like a funny circus mirror from some angles. I went with Acrylic but am shortly changing it out for Glass.The frame is 2.25" deep which allows for the monitor sit along with the brackets to hang on the wall. I built the frame using wood from a local B&Q (Hardware Store in the UK).I would recommend a USB output as this will ensure only 1 power cable is needed for the whole mirror. I had an 22" LG monitor spare but you can use any monitor.Since there will be no user fancy animations, performance isn’t really an issue. No specific model really, I use a 3B+ but the Pi is only being used for the web browser to render the tiles.A RaspberryPi (with microSD card - 8GB atleast).For this, my Home Assistant instance is on a dedicated server but ** my TileBoard theme is heavily styled** to get the layout I wanted (Read more below).An instance of Home Assistant with TileBoard installed.Home Assistant is a big part of my daily routine what with the automations and smart home control. For this project, I used Home Assistant with TileBoard. That brings me to last month where I had time to spend on getting it working again. It got switched off a few months ago as the UI broke and didn’t have time to get it working. It was a project that I wanted to do for a while and completed it about a year ago. ![]()
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